Restaurant Review

Cross Culture

The atmosphere is fresh and modern while the kitchen aims to please

Cross Culture, the newest dining addition to the Princeton Shopping Center, is sister restaurant to Palace of Asia, the oldest Indian restaurant in the area (established in 1985). Palace of Asia, located in Lawrence, is arguably the place that set the standard for local Indian food way back when and it is still regarded as somewhat of a benchmark for longtime area residents.

            Cross Culture is a departure from the opulent décor and large traditional Indian menu found at Palace of Asia. Instead, the young restaurant spins a personality of it’s own that feels fresh and modern. Cross Culture sports a minimalist décor with dim lighting, amber hues and Indian-themed paintings. A simple tile wall behind the front desk and a slate-inspired floor, make an understated and upscale backdrop.

            The handsome menu is scaled down in size and augmented with unexpected twists on Indian classics. Salmon, a fish that is rarely found on Indian menus, makes a big splash here. Fish Tandoor ($11.95) features salmon instead of the usual white fish. It is marinated in herbs and spices and cooked in the Tandoor oven, producing the ultimate in taste and texture. While Cross Culture’s traditional Samosa ($4.95) filled with potatoes and peas, is always a hit, the Chicken Samosa ($5.95) makes a bigger impression. It is a friendly adaptation of the classic, filled with a lively ground chicken mixture and served with two sauces for dipping: sweet tamarind and a kicked-up mint and coriander that can enhance many appetizers.

            Tandoori Specialties are a highlight here. The Mixed Grill (&20.95) brings a sizzling plate of chicken, lamb, shrimp and fish; each perfectly cooked and highly seasoned. When it comes to curries, there’s bit more explaining to do. Freshness and high-quality ingredients are the common threads for all the food at Cross Culture. Everything is made-to-order and that really comes through at table. In fact, Cross Culture does not do an all-you-can-eat buffet at any time of the day. They said management is sensitive to the needs of its clientele, so much so, that the food is often toned down to suit the average customer.

            Owner P J Singh explains that if the customer does not request a certain degree of spiciness, then the kitchen’s default number on a scale of 1 to 10, (one being least spicy and 10 being most spicy), is a 2 or 3. There is one problem with this theory; the server does not ask about heat preference when taking the order, so unless can be disappointing for some. Such was the case in quite a few of the dishes we tried.

            Daal makhani (&10.95), lamb rogan josh ($17.95), and lamb saagwala ($18.95) were particularly meek. A shame since I usually find all the dishes, especially the lentils (daal), very compelling. While the meat in all the lamb dishes was tender and inviting, the most successful out of the ones we sampled was the ever popular, Lamb Korma ($17.95) in its creamy, nutty sauce. Tomato-based chicken-curry ($14.95) with ginger and garlic was enjoyable as was palak paneer ($14.95) featuring Indian cheese in a spinach sauce that mimics saagwala. Baingan bharta ($12.95), eggplant roasted in the tandoor and incorporated in a tomato-based curry, was nicely done and emerged as the vegetarian favorite.

            At Cross Culture, naan, ($2.50) is made without the usual brush of butter on the outside, resulting in a driver version. While this health-conscious naan still functions competently as the blank canvas for the myriad of exotic flavors that embellish it, there is an irresistibility that is missing. (Unbeknownst to most customers, the buttery kind can be requested.) In contrast, the puri ($3.50), deep-fried balloon-puffed breads, are naughty, but very nice.

            The dessert selection is a mix of Indian classics and a few American-friendly safety nets. Gulab Jamun ($4.95), featuring warm milk and cheese balls that sit in an uber sweet syrup is the norm. Mango Sundae ($5.95) is pleasantly driven by mangoes, ice cream and whipped cream.

            Here, the culture is one that aims to please. The kitchen is happy to tailor to taste. And though we felt a little rushed to place our order on a busy evening, which could have merely been the result of attentiveness, we were able to enjoy our whole meal at a very comfortable pace. This family-owned and operated restaurant definitely makes hospitality a priority.

            In the end, the best way to experience Cross Culture is at least twice. Visit once to gauge the spice level at the default setting and again to get it right for your palate. After that, the sky’s the limit. Given its location, pedigree, modern flair, and proficient kitchen, Cross Culture could very well become that go-to Indian restaurant for many Princeton locals.

-By Antoinette Buckley

The Times

New Indian restaurant in Princeton transcends cultural boundaries

 Special to the Times

            With its international population, there is food to be found in Princeton. But since August there has been a new contender, offering very good food that has been adjusted to suit the American Palate. Cross Culture is located at the Princeton Shopping Center, the latest venture of brothers P.J. Singh and Monty Kainth.

            P. J. is manager at the Princeton Shopping Center, while his brother is in charge at the sister restaurant in Doylestown, PA. The two have a long family connection with the restaurant business. Their uncle owns the popular Palace of Asia in Lawrence. Decorated in earth tones with linen tablecloths and tables set close enough apart to not hear anyone else’s conversation, the restaurant is casually elegant and perfect for Princeton. But as lovely as the setting may be, it’s the food that is most impressive.

            Singh calls the cuisine Northern Indian Western Frontier, bit is quick to point out that have taken traditional dishes and adjusted them for the American palate. That’s where the crossing of cultures comes in. “People have a perception of Indian food as spicy,” he says. “We have toned down the mouth-burning spices, but you get the full flavor of Indian food.”

Of course, the restaurant also will accommodate those who want the traditional highly spiced versions of those dishes. Another area where the brothers diverge from other Indian restaurants is in their decision to not serve a buffet at lunchtime. Instead, they see complete lunch platters. “This is a new concept for Princeton,” he says.

The brothers also work hard to produce a healthy product with “no oil visible in a dish.” We found this to be especially true when we tried a vegetarian mixed appetizer for two, $7.95. A generous portion, the flavorful vegetable pakoras and potato-filled samosas were lightly fried with no trace of grease. Two crakerlike servings of grilled papadam were crisp and light with a peppery zing and accompanying tamarind and mint chutneys were perfect dipping companions. From the lengthy selection of entrees, a chicken biryani, $14.50, was a hefty portion with a generous amount of chicken mixed in with the rice, herbs and spices.

Also from the entrée selections, lamb saagwala, $18.95, was tender and fragrant, made with fresh spinach and scented with coriander. Accompanying it was a sizable portion of perfectly cooked basmati rice. All of the a la carte accompaniments were good or better including the raita, $2.25, and an order of naan, $2.50, traditional Indian bread. The housemade achar, $2.25, was especially good; the pickle mixture was not too spicy but had more a vinegar and lime flavor. A frothy glass of mango lassi, $5.50, was nor too sweet, and a welcome cooler for the occasional spicy bite.

An Indian masala ice tea, &3.50, had some of the cinnamon and cardamom flavor notes of the hot cups of chai, $2.25, we would order with dessert. Desserts, made in-house, were nicely done, including the traditional rasmalai, $4.95, and kulfi, $4.95. Not too sweet, but refreshing after the meal, both were good, but the rasmalai was definitely the favorite.

Singh says everything is made fresh to order, and that is apparent with every bite. While the prices are a little higher than at many Indian restaurants, the portions are quite large and the ingredients are high quality. Add to that the shopping center’s abundant parking, the fact that customers can bring their own wine and the attentiveness of the wait staff, and Cross Culture stands out in field of worthy contenders. Lovers of Indian food-except for those looking for a bargain buffet – will find it worth a visit.

The Comer

CROSS CULTURE

            Certain cuisines are found virtually everywhere around the globe, Indian cuisine is one of those, with restaurants present from Britain to Russia to Canada. In an area like central New Jersey with such a prominent Indian population, it is obvious that Indian restaurants are ubiquitous. Princeton proper has five, with countless more on Route 1 from here to Edison. The only question, though, is how many of them will provide good food, as most of the Indian restaurants in Princeton are not particularly exciting. This, however, all changed with the arrival of Cross Culture, which provides delicious, aromatic Indian cuisine.

            Located in the Shopping Center right behind A Taste of Mexico in the former Zen Palate locale, Cross Culture is the second establishment by the owners, who have a very successful Cross Culture restaurant in Doylestown, Pennsylvania. The restaurant’s location is quaint and pleasant, with a few Indian paintings on the wall and lots of light from windows all over. The Indian staff is friendly, enthusiastic, and knowledgeable.

            Of course, a restaurant is nothing without the food. Cross Culture offers a plethora of flavorful dishes hailing mostly from northern India. The dishes differ in terms of their levels of spice and range from stews, such as chicken tikka masala served in an orange sauce, to the tandoori plate, brought sizzling hot to the table. There are also seafood dishes, such as the exquisite shrimp karahi, prepared in a flavorful sauce of tomatoes and onions, and the traditional curry. About a third of the menu is vegetarian, with dishes such as palak paneer (spinach), baingan bharta (eggplant), and dal makhani (lentils). The naan breads are also delicious; there are plain breads as well as ones flavored with garlic, herbs, and others with spiced potatoes.

            Cross Culture has both a regular menu and a special lunch menu. The dishes generally range from $13 for the vegetable dishes to $21 for the mixed tandoori platter. The best deal is the lunch menu. Rather than the mediocre buffet lunches often found in Indian restaurants, the daily lunch consists of any dish from the list, about twenty in all, in addition to rice, dal makhani (lentil stew), naan bread and a plate of golden crispy pakoras (small vegetable fritters) for the table. This menu ranges from $9 for a vegetable main dish to $15 to a tandoori plate as the main dish.

            Overall the flavorful food and friendly atmosphere of Cross Culture make it a very pleasant addition to Princeton’s restaurants, proving far superior to the many other Indian restaurants in town. Possibly, with the success of this establishment, the owners will consider opening a new one in the area sometime soon, proving that are never enough Indian restaurants in central New Jersey.

-By Idir Aitsahalia

U.S. 1

Let’s Try… Cross Culture

     Subdued lighting, soft voiced servers who greet you gracefully, comfortable seating. A new wildly expensive dining experience too posh to be called a restaurant? No, a new Indian venue in the Princeton Street. This new restaurant has all this and more.

     Located at the site of the former Zen Palate, Cross Culture offers a diverse menu that focuses on flavor and authentic preparation. Upon our gracious reception when we entered, my friend immediately asked if the maitre d’ was from Punjab. Beaming, he said yes and that set the tone for the evening.

     The space has been redecorated in the warm tones that reflect the rich spices that are the hallmark of the food. Banquettes and well-spaced tables provide a comfortable seating area. We arrived around 7p.m. on a Monday and as the room filled, we never were aware of the other diners. Conversation was never overwhelmed by either loud chatter or Musak.